and then...

2010-05-31T21:15:00.000-07:00

To Whom it may concern: a teaspoon is a pretty good amount...

a Teaspoon's Worth of Motivation

2010-05-31T18:27:00.000-07:00

After looking at my blog I was surprised to see that it has only been a few months since I last posted something. By my account it had been much longer. So what’s new? Well I haven’t been climbing much and given that I generally write about climbing exploits I have simply not posted in a while. Then this chick started pressuring me to simply post something fresh… So here it is:

May I finished another mediocre semester of school and headed to the New River Gorge in ol’West Virginia for the New River Rendezvous. And to say it was dope would be the understatement of the century – well maybe the week – that is if you don’t listen to talk radio… any who, it was awesome!

Over the five days I was there for the event it was not raining a total of one day and fifteen minutes but that didn’t stop anyone we knew from having a great time and getting a fair amount of climbing in on some of the east coast’s best cliffs.

Now I know that some people are going to give me shit about this (in fact some already have) but I think it’s safe to say that in the future when the time comes to choose Red or New; I’m choosing the New! Now I know the New doesn’t have as many established sport routes as the Red and there isn’t any Miguel’s or Linda’s but fuck that because what the New does have is where it’s at!

First: there is still a lifetimes worth of climbing within a few min drive of Fayetteville and Summersville which means access to the town amenities that the Red lacks.

Second: Water! Who doesn’t love having the option to drop their harness and belay device on a hot day and go jump in the lake and do a little soloing?

Third: Potential; at the New there’s a lot of it and not just for new bold sport and trad routes but for bouldering galore. But this is a post about the rendezvous.

Because I’m unsure where to start I’ll simply avoid it by posting pictures…there aren’t many of climbing so……

div>

2010-03-11T11:09:00.000-08:00

Give a Rapper a Blue Hoodie

2010-03-11T10:37:00.000-08:00

Horse Pens is the best pens.

2009-11-10T21:32:00.000-08:00

So I need to post really bad, but I’m trying to build a new website and that takes up a lot of my time. I also started a training schedule that should take up no less than 15 hours a week for the first month then more later… With that said, I thought it were best that I go ahead and post a few photos from this past weekend’s Triple Crown at Horse Pens 40 in Steele, Alabama. This is how it went down (thru the lens of my camera):

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***So there is no confusion I want to make it clear that all the pictures of Alex Puccio on bumboy were taken on Sunday (the day after the comp).

******IF YOU LIKE THESE PICS PLEASE POST COMMENTS - ANY COMMENTARY IS MUCH APPRECIATED!

Triple Crown!!!!!

2009-10-05T17:47:00.000-07:00

Climbers rejoice! Our annual three stop super-social event has begun... and what a hell of a start it was… The weekend began with usual travel crew assembly followed by a long drive full of shit talking. Being an Alabama kid, the Houndears Triple Crown stop represents something bigger to me than the comp itself – it’s the official beginning of Fall. In the past TCB was something I sweeted over. I remember showing up at the campground and trying to size up the competition. I remember being nervous as I ate breakfast at an ungodly hour in that dumb campground. But now…now Triple Crown is a time to kick it with the boys! Time to talk shit to people who are 10 million times stronger than me and watch all the yahoos get all worked up over…well I’m not sure what people get so worked up about…but they do. And that shit is silly.

I guess I can credit my attitude change to the people I’ve been kickin’ it with. For example a few years ago I discovered that if I looked around I could find a ride up the hill so I wouldn’t have to catch the bus at 8am. Huge difference! Then I learned that the only consequence of choosing to eat breakfast and missing the climbers’ meeting because I arrived at 10:30 was nothing. Awesome! Then I learned the best thing yet- if I didn’t fill out a score card I had more fun than if I had! So putting my knowledge to work I woke up late, took a shower, drank some scotch, ate a gas station pastry, and climbed into Mr. Lee’s truck an hour after the busses left. Perfect.

This year’s competitors were a regular who’s who of motivated dirt bags & dirt bag wannabes alike; as well as a few ass holes (namely: Nathan Smith, Dustin Vann, Ben Henson, Joe Ortega, Lee Means & Ronnie Jenkins – I mean Ronnie was nice but I know by the people he surrounds himself with he must be a dick). Anyway, the comp went like this:

Morning – I couldn’t tell you because I wasn’t there.

10:30AM – Get to Houndears after the comp started. Hung out in the Parking lot for a while.

10:45AM – I hear that Willcutt just hiked “Jaws II” a v8 in the very front. At that I decided it
was time to get off my ass.

Noon – I’m drunk and have yet to put on my climbing shoes although I’ve taken hundreds of pictures by now.

Noon & a half – Some kids talk me into trying “The Blade” I flashed it. Then the shoes came back off and more whisky went in my belly.

1PM – I run into chaz and end up following him way down the hill because I could no longer chose a direction for myself. While down there I did the only other problem of the weekend “John Cougar Concentration Camp”

3PM – I arrive back at the top just in time to hear everyone freaking out over someone breaking the crux hold on “Fuk You” I don’t know who did it but I’m sure he’s an ass...Joe.

5PM – I run into all the boys who I hadn’t seen all day. Within 2 minutes my bottle of scotch went from half full to almost empty.

7PM – Soggy sandwich at campsite sucks… Nathan not happy.

9PM – Ben Henson takes the stage. I don’t know what happened after that. It was so awesome I temporally went def & blind. “It was all a dream…”

12AM – The crew (which had grown by 4) checks into a motel so gross that I chose to put on more clothes before lying on top of the covers to avoid diseases.

In the end I rode in a car for 11 hours to climb 2 problems & I couldn’t imagine a better weekend. Thank you to all the people who made it so awesome…and that means you too New Guy.

Quote of the week: “If it wasn’t for Future I’d still just be Nathan.”

Oh its coming back sucka...

2009-09-04T23:14:00.000-07:00

It’s little after one in the morning and I can think of no less than 6,847 places I’d rather be at this exact moment. It’s been months since I’ve made an entry and although I’ve been busy with school, trying to get a guiding company running, and trying to maintain a few relationships, the only reason I haven’t stopped for the dear ol’blogspot is that I lost all my motivation. Well… Maybe it would help if I elaborated… As any reader of my blog knows I tend to post about traveling and climbing. It’s really all I think about… I take pictures of all sorts of stuff but never seem to find myself reflecting on photos that don’t pertain, in some way, to climbing. So when it started getting hot and sticky in late march everything in my world started to crumble. With my only options being grin and take it or to pack up and hit the road I toiled with all the possible outcomes. Hell, I lied awake at night contemplating the exact time I could hit the Canadian border if I left in the next hour but I never did. It’s funny. I know that in terms of problems that doesn’t make the list, however it continued to weigh heavily on me. In the end I became determined to force it out of my brain. To hell with not training, I’m not even going to conceder making it to HP this summer..and while I’m at it fuck LRC too.. with all its goddamn secrets. But now the weather is beginning to show glimpses of fall and, although I feel silly admitting it, the recent addition of a REAL gym in Birmingham has got me stoked again! I cannot wait! I’m so excited I even want to train! “What is this training?” you say. Well I’m really not too sure, but when I find out I’ll be sure and let everyone in on it. But for now it simply feels great to be excited.

Oh and if you’re not pumped about the cold crisp air coming our way keep an eye out for me I’m pretty confident this thing I’ve got is infectious.

Lazy Magnolia to the Rescue

2009-03-18T13:25:00.000-07:00

So, I said I wasn’t going to blog for another few days or so but something miraculous happened today and I thought it best that I make commentary about it. Today, after doing poorly on a test this morning, having another test tomorrow morning, and all the while freaking-out over a paper that is due by 11am, I decided to take a break. So I went and got lunch with a friend. Because I had already given up on my studies I decided might as well have a beer – I feel it necessary to stop at this point and shed light on the fact that I am not & never have been a drinker of any caliber – but for some reason my delicious lunch seemed to reinvigorate me. As I headed back to the library I could actually feel the genius oozing out of me onto the soiled floor mats that I refuse to clean. At mock-7 I pulled into the library parking lot weaving between seniors and little Asian kids; gathered up as much of the invisible awesomeness as I could and stuffed it into my pockets. Then ran inside so that I could get it on my computer as fast as possible. Thank you Lazy Magnolia…today you fixed everything.erything.

A little Swamped

2009-03-17T10:34:00.000-07:00

OK ok ok.

I know I said I was going to try and post everyday for a while but I’m swamped with school and other stuff. Give me three more days and its on!!! But until then I suggest you checkout www.AEROTTER.blogspot.com

2009-03-10T22:49:00.000-07:00

So, most people who read my blog know the S.C.C., but to the few of you who don’t let me catch you up.

The Southeastern Climbers Coalition (SCC) is a non-profit organization that formed in the early 90’s when a bunch of climbers teamed-up to address Lookout Mountain’s access issues. They work closely with the Access Fund (another non-profit) to address access issues, host trail days, and even purchase cliff lines and bouldering areas all over the southeast.

In the last six months the SCC has purchased two cliffs: Yellow Bluff – a 1000+ linear feet of cliffline about 20 miles outside Huntsville – and Steele 25 acres of cliff in, yes, Steele, AL! I really can’t begin to describe how proud I am of all the work that everyone is doing...
But any who, I am so stoked about having good trad climbing within 45min of home! So its time I pull out my shiny trad-rack and hit the cliff.

So again, thank you to everyone who has dedicated so much time and effort!

the rack is out.

Brooks the V Hero

2009-03-09T15:01:00.000-07:00

2009-03-08T15:16:00.000-07:00

So lately I have been really slacking off with the whole blog posting thing and don’t you think for a minute that I haven’t heard about it. In the past I’ve always gone the easy route – said “oh yeah...I got some stuff I’m about to post” – then done nothing. But I’ve decided to get my shit together and start posting and regularly! I figure if people are actually spending some of their free time checking out my blog I should give them something! Thanks for the movimiento Gary, Easy, & V Hero!

UA Climbing Comp.

2009-02-01T21:33:00.000-08:00

On a Beautiful Saturday I hunkered inside with the rest of the rats to watch the University of Alabama's 3rd annual climbing competition. All and all UA put on another great school climbing comp! In such a small space it was hard to miss a thing which lead to me shooting well over a thousand shots!!! Here are a few:

Puro Movimiento

2009-01-29T07:56:00.000-08:00

Today, at this moment, I sit in class but my mind is in a very different place. This Morning I woke early dreaming about the cold desert wind whipping snow through the tiny crack of my driver-side window. It was too dark when I arrived to look for a wind-protected sanctuary. I was far too tired to keep driving this high in the canyon. I pulled over, cracked my window, and fell asleep before slipping into my warm bag. When morning came I awoke to harsh wind – cold snow. After showering and brushing my teeth I decided to get safe. There was no place that I wanted to be more. No feelings I wanted to experience more. I closed my eyes and went back to that cold morning in the back of my truck. I cracked my eyes and peered up from my sleeping position - to my amazement the entire canyon was frozen. I remember thinking “What the fuck? Where the hell am I? The desert is trying to kill me!” I wiggled my way to a sitting position – where there had been only darkness; there was now an enormous mountain reservoir – frozen solid. Only two days before it was 90 degrees in Moab. I was very excited…

This is the first time I've found myself longing for Joe’s but I miss Utah. I miss traveling. I miss the desert. I miss the mountains. I miss the rain forest. I miss the fjords. I miss feeling the glacier creaking in the afternoon sun. I miss the people. But above all I miss the constant urges to go on – to do more – to be motivated by something so powerful that to try to define it seems blasphemes. Perhaps I’m just a loon but I really don’t know how to explain to people that every day I sit in a generic classroom staring at a generic whiteboard, or on a random street in a random town I die just a little –just enough to feel it. The worst part is that with every passing day my sensitivity to this phenomenon fades too. I’m twenty three, soon to be twenty four, and the only equity I've built is intangible, and many would argue has no value at all. My wants are not unlike that of most people. I desire shelter, companionship, a since of belonging - I would even like to have enough money that I do not live on a bubble – yet I cannot shake my desire. It is who I am. It is what I’m supposed to do. There is nothing harder or more detrimental than forcing yourself to deny your path. I am now, as I always have been, unsure about the proper direction to take but I do find solace knowing that that there will be many other days like the ones pictured here.

Puro Movimiento - Solid Movement

birmingham

2008-12-14T22:23:00.000-08:00

a few shots from my hometown...more to come soon.

The Winners Circle

2008-12-04T17:03:00.000-08:00

SEND BOULDERING holding it down after crushing UA Climber Triathlon

Good Times!

Today Was Awesome!!!

2008-12-02T21:08:00.000-08:00

So after ranting yesterday I had a great great great day today! It was cold. The friction was awesome. And I couldn't have asked for a better crew to share it with.

Mike getting very intiment beta from Daniel

Me working hard to figure out the next move. I'll get it soon

The great thing about the new area were playing in is that there is absolutely no need to contrive anything. Everything is hard (or at least for me). I'm really so excited about watching the process of the group working out every little movment.

I’d love to disclose the location but do to access issues I can’t, but chances are if you are one of the few climbers who looks at this blog – you know where this is.

Super cool arete with hard moves

The Doug Jackson

Thanks drew for taking a few shots

A Bit Too Much Project / Ego Hysteria

2008-12-02T09:47:00.000-08:00

Lately, all my friends (or should I say the people I climb with the most) seem to be stoked on their new FA Projects: Projects being a route (series of climbing holds/moves) that is at ones personal physical and mental limit; FA meaning First Accent or simply being the first to complete it. I too have jumped on the FA bandwagon with a short list of semisecret projects which got me thinking…

Why do I give a shit if I am the first to climb something? Why do other people?

I tried my best to go through all the rational reasons I could come up with. I quickly found it easiest to then lump these ideas into general topics. This is what it ended up looking like:

1) Because they desire to make the journey their own. And in doing so they feel that they must leave the “beaten path” and seek out climbs that are undiscovered. I list this as the first rationale because it is the one I choose to subscribe to personally. However, as I’ve meditated on it I’ve come to see this validation as flawed. If my true intent was discovery; then why should there be any emphasis on the actual FIRST accent? Shouldn’t I be satisfied with the knowledge that I got out and did just what I intended to do? Should I not take pleasure in the fact that my sighting might serve as muse for others?

2) Or maybe it’s because one feels as if they can express themselves through the process of envisioning the line, then working the moves, then putting all their mental effort into action through physical exertion. The manufacturing of a new route is not unlike that of a well choreographed dance. The principle must be creative, poised, and prepared to learn and adapt at all times. However, I feel that, unlike other artist climbers do not have a legitimate argument to claim anything as their own. First: Climbers although having contributed great effort to the assent did not participate in the creation of their medium (the boulder or cliff). Secondly: to assume that people were the first to climb anything is silly. Example: I was climbing in my buddies’ backyard recently and as I approached the top of a 30+ foot cliff I was passed by a small lizard carrying something in his mouth the size of its upper body. As I struggled, it just cruised on by - uninterested in me. So - just because I bolted said cliff and was the first Human to climb it does in no way mean that animals hadn’t been scaling up and down it for hundreds of years. So maybe I (along with everyone else) should start claiming the FHA’s.

3) Or perhaps, it’s because they feel that putting their name on something solidifies them as something more than the casual weekend warrior. More in what way? Maybe they need validation or something semi-tangible that they can point to and say “I did that first!” Possibly they see it as another way of proving to themselves how much better they are then perhaps someone who can’t climb their route or walked by it for years without seeing said line. Ultimately I think that that comes down to the individual. However, I feel it necessary to say that the pursuit of anything simply to flex ones ego might be the saddest way of all to spend waking hours.

So, if you are one of the people who tries to hide your project because it is “yours”, or if you choose to clean all your chalk off the holds when you’re done trying to keep the line a secret instead of being environmentally responsible – It is time to GET OVER YOURSELF! You are a climber. And even if you are the very best climber to ever live – you will still be someone who’s greatest achievements came through a completely selfish pursuit of your own indulgence.

With that being said… I’m psyched about the cold weather and high friction…so today and tomorrow I will spend my time on projects…fulfilling my lenience…I welcome anyone to join me and I would be very happy to see you crush all the new lines I’ve spotted.

Finnally Fall

2008-11-09T21:37:00.000-08:00

The Gate

2008-10-12T21:59:00.000-07:00

but the question is is it the way in or the way out?

Fireworks at home.

2008-10-12T21:16:00.000-07:00

Drew on Serenity Now

2008-10-08T20:26:00.000-07:00

Moss Rock

2008-09-29T00:00:00.000-07:00

It might still be hot. The flys might be out all day. The friction might be awful.

But people are getting physched!!!

Mike on Chalky Nighmares

Daniel on NoSac

Fun contrivance over Long Shot

Baby Mike forgetting his name and doing the long beta.

Joseph on Double Clutch

Profiles

2008-09-26T21:11:00.000-07:00

Danger

Blue Skys in the Buttermilks

Matt enjoying a sunny afternoon under the cheif

Third nap of the day

Who's excited about 50 degree summers?

Horse Pens

2008-09-25T10:07:00.001-07:00

Drew on Slush Puppy

Straight Out of Squampton

2008-09-24T21:43:00.001-07:00

Craig on A.T.D.

Sheila on Golden Boy

Gerry getting wide.

Craig @ Murrin Park

Nathan fighting for air in the Red Neck Hookah Cave area

Matt crimpin' out the color

So some kids get outside a little earlier than other...

And some get out a lot earlier.

Nathan floating on the Cutting Edge

Zen & the art of sending

Random Shots from the Past

2008-09-24T21:27:00.000-07:00

Mountain in Bloom